Just keep sewing just keep sewing

still at it

Embroidering the back of the bodice

I admit I bit off more then I can chew on this project.  If I had my own space and sewing supplies easily at hand I might be further along. Sewing everything by hand or using my machine on TV tray or on my bed is making things difficult.

The doublet over gown might have to wait until after the competition.  The plan was to have the underdress done by Aug 6th for the kingdom color competition and even that might be a hard task.

As it stands I still have to finish
 the bodice embroidery
Sewing the bodice together
Trim
Eyelets
Sleeves
Skirt
Skirt embroidery

That's a lot!

Alternates for the over layer that needs to happen to finish the ircc
A Turkish coat
A Surcoat
Or the doublet done very plain and simple

Hmmmm choices

I might also make changes to the sleeves have to think on that

cutwork handkerchief walk through

Step 1- prep work
Cut your item.  In this case a linen handkerchief.

 Finish edges (I also like to do any hem treatments now)

Trace your pattern

Frame (optional,  I like it as it keeps it flat.  You want it snug but not drum tight)

Step 2- outline

Back stitch or holbein works well depending on the size of the project you can do several rows of stitches to build up your outline

*you can choose to do your bars now or later. If you are planning on rolling your cut edges under your stitches do the bars now

With the outline done you can move on to the next step depending on your preference. I like to keep the fabric intact until the very end I find it leads to less puckering and the raw edge will work is way under your stitching on its own.  

*If you would rather not have a raw edge on your piece you have to take some steps to prevent it for stretching weird. Moving slowly cut small snips out of the middle of your cut space.  Carefully roll these bits under and enclose them with your buttonhole stitch.  Careful to not cut your bars and work from the center out.

Step 3- buttonhole stitch everything
Starting from the middle buttonhole stitch over your outline with the flat edge of the stitch along the area you will cut away.  Details on the middle will also be covered with buttonhole stitch. When you come to one of your bars that connect two areas that will not be caught go back and forth from the middle of the outline to the middle of the outline 3 times (all crossings should be above the fabric) then using the buttonhole stitch around these crossing till you are back to the original outline.  Continue till everything is done.

 

This is the longest part take your time it will be worth it I promise

Step 4- prepare to cut
Now that you finished stitching take a break. Pat yourself on the back

Remove from the frame and wash. I do this by hand.  Let it dry and iron flat.  I put the work back into the frame to cut as it keeps everything stable you don't have to do this

Carefully cut as close to your embroidered edge as you can.  If you are really worried about it all falling apart use frey check before cutting. Go slowly I use embroidery scissors but I know folks who will use an exacto knife.  Be careful not to cut the bars but if you do, cut them off and stitch again.  It's pretty forgiving.

When you are done stand back and admire your work.  If you find one area isn't as supported as you would like you can add more bars. 

Congrats you have done cutwork!

major slow down

So each cut out item on the bodice needs to be enclosed in thread or it freys. My machine doesn't stitch small enough to keep it from looking muddy so that means it has to be done by hand.  Each pomegranate section takes about 6 hours to stitch a little less if I'm really in a grove.  So the question becomes do it right or go skip it and move on.  I'm going for doing it right. Considering all the time and effort I've already put into this I would just kick myself if it fell apart after the first wearing. That may mean I won't finish everything in time for the IRCC but I'll keep going and just turn in what I have when the time comes.

Showing the difference between just the cutwork and the embroidered cutwork

Also I need to decided if I want to add "seeds" for the pomegranate and how I want to do them