cutwork handkerchief walk through

Step 1- prep work
Cut your item.  In this case a linen handkerchief.

 Finish edges (I also like to do any hem treatments now)

Trace your pattern

Frame (optional,  I like it as it keeps it flat.  You want it snug but not drum tight)

Step 2- outline

Back stitch or holbein works well depending on the size of the project you can do several rows of stitches to build up your outline

*you can choose to do your bars now or later. If you are planning on rolling your cut edges under your stitches do the bars now

With the outline done you can move on to the next step depending on your preference. I like to keep the fabric intact until the very end I find it leads to less puckering and the raw edge will work is way under your stitching on its own.  

*If you would rather not have a raw edge on your piece you have to take some steps to prevent it for stretching weird. Moving slowly cut small snips out of the middle of your cut space.  Carefully roll these bits under and enclose them with your buttonhole stitch.  Careful to not cut your bars and work from the center out.

Step 3- buttonhole stitch everything
Starting from the middle buttonhole stitch over your outline with the flat edge of the stitch along the area you will cut away.  Details on the middle will also be covered with buttonhole stitch. When you come to one of your bars that connect two areas that will not be caught go back and forth from the middle of the outline to the middle of the outline 3 times (all crossings should be above the fabric) then using the buttonhole stitch around these crossing till you are back to the original outline.  Continue till everything is done.

 

This is the longest part take your time it will be worth it I promise

Step 4- prepare to cut
Now that you finished stitching take a break. Pat yourself on the back

Remove from the frame and wash. I do this by hand.  Let it dry and iron flat.  I put the work back into the frame to cut as it keeps everything stable you don't have to do this

Carefully cut as close to your embroidered edge as you can.  If you are really worried about it all falling apart use frey check before cutting. Go slowly I use embroidery scissors but I know folks who will use an exacto knife.  Be careful not to cut the bars but if you do, cut them off and stitch again.  It's pretty forgiving.

When you are done stand back and admire your work.  If you find one area isn't as supported as you would like you can add more bars. 

Congrats you have done cutwork!

secret project

A dear friend was offered admittance into the order of the pelican.  So about a month before her elevation I suddenly got hit by some inspiration and started work on a secret elevation gift.

I dabble with drawn thread work and on occasion have done handkerchiefs as gifts.  This time I wanted to try something new and challenging so I played with some larger scale detailed cutwork.

All done by hand linen and silk thread

photos of the progress

Finally all the stitching was done! Now to move on to wash the piece and to stay cutting away the linen. ... deep breath

And now finished

handsewn

Starting work on the Handsewn gown.  First project is a corset inspired by the dorethea

second leaf

Second  leaf of the tambour embroidery is done and  9 rows left to go on my second knitted shawl, so I'm showing some progress!

first leaf done!

And still no arthritis flare!

new pocket new technique

Stayed working on the other half of my  heraldic pockets.  I'm also taking this chance to work on a new technique, tambour embroidery.  What I'm loving about it is that it's so much easier on my hands, having early onset arthritis has killed a lot of the time I would like to spend working on my projects.  But so far no flare up. I've looked into the historical background of this technique,  in  India and Mongolia there is a similar technique using a similar style hook.  The more I'm looking at some late period embroidery I have to wonder if this crossed into western Europe earlier then the  1700s, which is about the date this style of embroidery really came into fashion.

ambitious project

I'm playing with undertaking a huge project.  A full italian outfit Sewn 90%  by hand. It's looking like I will have some time on my hands so I can under take this

The only Thing I will not be sewing by hand is the quilted petticoat mainly because it is highly experimental and really detailed in a medium I have never tried before.  As money is incredibly tight I well be using a faux silk I have in my stash,  the chemise and partlet will be out of silk from my stash the pockets from linen in my stash. There will be lots of embroidery and hand aplique.

This will be heraldicly inspired by my arms and  badge  including   elements such as pomegranates and ermine

My  arms 

My  badge 

The dress inspiration 

The plan