secret project

A dear friend was offered admittance into the order of the pelican.  So about a month before her elevation I suddenly got hit by some inspiration and started work on a secret elevation gift.

I dabble with drawn thread work and on occasion have done handkerchiefs as gifts.  This time I wanted to try something new and challenging so I played with some larger scale detailed cutwork.

All done by hand linen and silk thread

photos of the progress

Finally all the stitching was done! Now to move on to wash the piece and to stay cutting away the linen. ... deep breath

And now finished

IRCC A Plan

This dress will be my jumping off point

I portrait of a woman by Bernardino Campi currently at the MET dated to the late 1560's.

There is a group that is encouraging folks to make garb in kingdom colors so this outfit will be my attempt at that. So it will be in the colors of my new kingdom gold and black.  As I love adding  heraldic elements to my gowns I will be doing a nod to my heraldry in the trim of the underdress.

My plan
Corset- inspired by the dorethea corset.  Canvas,  zip ties for boning. Lined in linen with a silk outer fabric and bound with silk bias tape.  Hand done eyelets and hand done lucet lacing cord.

Chemise- square neck very sheer silk for the body and a heavier silk for cuffs and neck facing possibly  with black work embroidery and possibly with hand made lace

Partlet- sheer silk maybe some white on white embroidery

Underdress- antique gold silk dress with black silk reverse applique trim.  Trim will be pomegranates and ermine spots might couch gold thread around shape to give it punch. Very close to shape in portrait looking to the elenor toledo gown for shape. Hand made lucet for lacing

Overdress- black silk decorations will depend on time might be very plain with additional decorations added after the competition

Belt- ouches and chain links in garter belt weave.  I've never tried chain mail so that will be an adventure

Veil- tulle and Venetian lace sewn to the edge. Will dye it gold although it might be more yellow depending on what kind of dye I could find. Tulle and lace are white so I have a better chance of matching color with dye

Necklace- not like portrait will be more like a carcanet. Similar ocher to belt with pearls so I cam attach my awards to the chain cause I like that look

If there is time:
petticoat
Fan
Earrings
Overdress decoration

Shipping list
corset
-canvas -bought -in possession
-zip ties -bought  -in possession
-silk -bought  -in possession
-linen -bought  -in possession

chemise
-sheer silk -bought  -in possession
-heavier silk -bought -misplaced atm

partlet
Silk -need to buy must wait for $

underdress
-gold silk -bought
-black silk - bought

Overdress
Need to buy must wait for $

Belt
Ouches bought
Chain need to get supplies to make

Veil
Tulle bought
Lace bought

Necklace
Need to buy supplies must wait for $

In stash
thread
Lucet supplies

handsewn

Starting work on the Handsewn gown.  First project is a corset inspired by the dorethea

first leaf done!

And still no arthritis flare!

new pocket new technique

Stayed working on the other half of my  heraldic pockets.  I'm also taking this chance to work on a new technique, tambour embroidery.  What I'm loving about it is that it's so much easier on my hands, having early onset arthritis has killed a lot of the time I would like to spend working on my projects.  But so far no flare up. I've looked into the historical background of this technique,  in  India and Mongolia there is a similar technique using a similar style hook.  The more I'm looking at some late period embroidery I have to wonder if this crossed into western Europe earlier then the  1700s, which is about the date this style of embroidery really came into fashion.

when is too hot to pack

So I've been packing and prepping for the move but with the  air conditioner dead in the middle of the day its too hot to do anything but sit on the couch and stew so I got started on the first project in my ambitious outfit.

Heraldic  pockets

For those just coming to the party these are my arms

So I came up with a plan of one black and one white pocket 

And  I got started with the embroidery using a combo of  chain and split stitch 

I'm pleased with my progress so far

ambitious project

I'm playing with undertaking a huge project.  A full italian outfit Sewn 90%  by hand. It's looking like I will have some time on my hands so I can under take this

The only Thing I will not be sewing by hand is the quilted petticoat mainly because it is highly experimental and really detailed in a medium I have never tried before.  As money is incredibly tight I well be using a faux silk I have in my stash,  the chemise and partlet will be out of silk from my stash the pockets from linen in my stash. There will be lots of embroidery and hand aplique.

This will be heraldicly inspired by my arms and  badge  including   elements such as pomegranates and ermine

My  arms 

My  badge 

The dress inspiration 

The plan 

it's never too early

To plan for next years Italian renaissance costuming challenge.

The IRCC ends in a couple of weeks and I'm so glad I didn't do it this year. Between our financial issues and the move there is no way I could have pulled it off. By the time the IRCC comes around again I'll be in a different state and in a new kingdom. Maybe, just maybe I'll be be with folks who understand the challenge and it will be more then just a blip on their radar.

The one thing I have learned from completing the challenge twice before is you have to have a plan. This also helps as I can start spreading out the costs for supplies although I am going to be on a very tight budget. I've already decided to use faux silks as the cost for the yardage  I will need will be expensive.

The inspiration:

From 'Mores Italiae' 1557 Venice

I've never done this style before so it will be an interesting challenge. I don't know what out it's about this image, maybe it's the color combination but it so speaks to me.

Fabrics-

My samples finally arrived after 2 months of waiting.

For a faux silk these have a nice weight and body to them. I used this fabric when I did the costumes for Kismet and while it's not ideal overall it's a good facsimile, and at just under $5 a yard it makes it affordable.

The underdress is a very interesting color an orange/red/copper/gold. I couldn't find anything that would look like that color and I want pleased with the reds available so I'm leaning towards a copper. I like how the colors look together.

Layers-

Chemise- square neck with blackwork embroidery

Drawers- embroidered

Stockings- Eleanor Toledo knit 

Shoes- embroidered 

Partlet- ruffle

Corset- hand stitched embellishment

Petticoat- truptano and rope

Pockets- heraldic embroidered

Underdress- spiral cut sleeves, cutwork skirt

Over dress- black lined in blue,  gold bobbin lace trim, gold buttons

Of course if I get motivation to start it singer then the IRCC I'll just go for it