gold dress trim

I think I've figured out the pattern for the reverse applique trim for the gold underdress.  And I think I'm insane

corset done!

I know it isn't much to look at but as it stands I have 3 out of the maximum 7 items for the IRCC finished.  2 big projects loom ahead the under and over dress.

Corset 95% done just eyelets on the straps to go

corset eyelets

Eyelets up the back and lucet done!
Tomorrow I do a test for and figure out the strap placement.  Once that is figured out I need to bind the top edge and do 4 more eyelets then it will be done!

eyelets

Today I'm focusing on eyelets and the lucet to lace the corset.  I had already finished one length of cord but after talking to my hubby I decided to switch it from being spiral laced to cross laced as the hubby will be the one lacing me into the corset and he found he had more control with cross lacing on a corset

sweet bag take 2

I like my gryphon sweet bag but the yarn makes it look like something a bit lower class then what I was going for.  So I'm trying it again this time with silk embroidery floss and very tiny knitting needles

Not much to show on the secret project I cut the linen and hemmed the edges

slooow

Working on attaching the binding on the bottom of the corset is slow going the joys of sewing with a Thimble and a set of pliers

catch up

It's been a couple of days since I last posted.  Things have been a bit insane prepping for known world heralds and scribes this coming weekend and I just got the ok to travel back to Colorado next weekend to visit my baby event golden Thimble.

The corset had been giving me fits the silk and linen refused to lay right so I had to keep trying again and again so that it wouldn't bubble. The joys of having material stretch differently  when under tension.  Finally I got it as close as I could, stitched the boning channels on the silk and now I sold be ready to do the eyelets and binding.  Just cut the silk to create bias tape.

corset

Corset boning is done.  Lining, eyelets and binding to go

Carcanet

http://www.trulyhats.net/ has beautiful ouches and so I decided I wanted a Carcanet of my own.  Truly shows some beautiful examples of carcanets in many italian paintings.

 I love how my carcanet came out and I think one day I would love a chain of office with these beautiful ouches

knit bag done!

knit panel

My first attempt at color work is almost done I just need to stitch it into bag form

Pattern is taken from a book of tapestry  patterns from 1597 there is a great website which has a great catalog of the patterns
http://gwydir.demon.co.uk/jo/tapestry/index.htm

Now to stitch it into a bag and make some lucet for a drawstring

knit bag

Almost to the half way point with the bag! Starting to see the design take shape! 

false starts

Since I'm waiting on the linen for the corset and more ouches for the necklace I thought I would start work on the little sweet bag I've been thinking about trying the last couple of days.  Normally I do a set of pockets with my gowns as I love pockets and Anna bit of a pocket pusher bit to mix things up I thought I'd knit a little sweet bag.  I don't have any fine yarn atm  so I'm going to use some basic stuff I have in my stash. I'd say I'm an advanced beginner when it comes to knitting.  I can follow a pattern and I've done socks and shawls.  I've never done any type of color work so I thought I'd try something new and do two color double knitting and make the pattern myself. I did some research into the technique and think I have a good idea of what I'm doing and I found some knit bags pre  16th century that show some color work.

I'm currently starting this knitting project over for the 5th time. Tension issues and not paying close enough attention to what I was doing are the causes.  It's ok it is a new technique for me and I'm learning more every time I  rip it back to stay again.  Hopefully I get it this time.

Pics once I have something to show off the project

day 2

Finished the white lucet for the corset and started the black and gold chords for the underdress

started playing with the ouches that will make up my necklace ended up not having enough for the length I wanted so ordered more

Continuing work on the corset hopefully the linen will arrive tomorrow so I can line it, bind it and add the eyelets in the next few days

day one

Couldn't sleep so I got started right at midnight (the countdown felt like new year) 5... 4... 3.... 2.... 1.... go

First on my list was a corset. Cut the canvas sewed the body together took a nap then started boning channels.  Cut and placed the boning (zip ties ). First time I placed them I forgot to think about the curve that often happens with zip ties because they are stored wrapped  in a circle. Went back and flipped every other bone and problem fixed.

Took a bit of a break and started lucet cords

Inspired by the dorethea corset seen above

Corset cut and boning channels in front done

Close up to see the channels

Making lucet 

4 hours to go time

Hubby is working 8:30pm till 5am tomorrow so I can do some work tonight. I still think I'm crazy considering we are still living in only 2 10x10 rooms with my mother in law so my sewing space is either my sewing machine on a TV tray or balancing carefully on my bed but this may encourage me to do more basting and finishing by hand. 

The goal tonight is to stay work on the corset as that will be the foundation item all other items will be fitted around.  Sadly I can't find the linen I bought for the lining so o ordered some and fabric-store. Com is usually really fast with the shipping so hopefully it will get here just in time for me to need it although I have some other little projects to fill time if that is not the case

I'm hoping for a strong start to make up for the space issues I will have as well as the plan to find, buy and move into a house before the end of the competition. Add to that some huge sca events and this will truly become an exercise in descipline and time management. 

IRCC A Plan

This dress will be my jumping off point

I portrait of a woman by Bernardino Campi currently at the MET dated to the late 1560's.

There is a group that is encouraging folks to make garb in kingdom colors so this outfit will be my attempt at that. So it will be in the colors of my new kingdom gold and black.  As I love adding  heraldic elements to my gowns I will be doing a nod to my heraldry in the trim of the underdress.

My plan
Corset- inspired by the dorethea corset.  Canvas,  zip ties for boning. Lined in linen with a silk outer fabric and bound with silk bias tape.  Hand done eyelets and hand done lucet lacing cord.

Chemise- square neck very sheer silk for the body and a heavier silk for cuffs and neck facing possibly  with black work embroidery and possibly with hand made lace

Partlet- sheer silk maybe some white on white embroidery

Underdress- antique gold silk dress with black silk reverse applique trim.  Trim will be pomegranates and ermine spots might couch gold thread around shape to give it punch. Very close to shape in portrait looking to the elenor toledo gown for shape. Hand made lucet for lacing

Overdress- black silk decorations will depend on time might be very plain with additional decorations added after the competition

Belt- ouches and chain links in garter belt weave.  I've never tried chain mail so that will be an adventure

Veil- tulle and Venetian lace sewn to the edge. Will dye it gold although it might be more yellow depending on what kind of dye I could find. Tulle and lace are white so I have a better chance of matching color with dye

Necklace- not like portrait will be more like a carcanet. Similar ocher to belt with pearls so I cam attach my awards to the chain cause I like that look

If there is time:
petticoat
Fan
Earrings
Overdress decoration

Shipping list
corset
-canvas -bought -in possession
-zip ties -bought  -in possession
-silk -bought  -in possession
-linen -bought  -in possession

chemise
-sheer silk -bought  -in possession
-heavier silk -bought -misplaced atm

partlet
Silk -need to buy must wait for $

underdress
-gold silk -bought
-black silk - bought

Overdress
Need to buy must wait for $

Belt
Ouches bought
Chain need to get supplies to make

Veil
Tulle bought
Lace bought

Necklace
Need to buy supplies must wait for $

In stash
thread
Lucet supplies

it's never too early

To plan for next years Italian renaissance costuming challenge.

The IRCC ends in a couple of weeks and I'm so glad I didn't do it this year. Between our financial issues and the move there is no way I could have pulled it off. By the time the IRCC comes around again I'll be in a different state and in a new kingdom. Maybe, just maybe I'll be be with folks who understand the challenge and it will be more then just a blip on their radar.

The one thing I have learned from completing the challenge twice before is you have to have a plan. This also helps as I can start spreading out the costs for supplies although I am going to be on a very tight budget. I've already decided to use faux silks as the cost for the yardage  I will need will be expensive.

The inspiration:

From 'Mores Italiae' 1557 Venice

I've never done this style before so it will be an interesting challenge. I don't know what out it's about this image, maybe it's the color combination but it so speaks to me.

Fabrics-

My samples finally arrived after 2 months of waiting.

For a faux silk these have a nice weight and body to them. I used this fabric when I did the costumes for Kismet and while it's not ideal overall it's a good facsimile, and at just under $5 a yard it makes it affordable.

The underdress is a very interesting color an orange/red/copper/gold. I couldn't find anything that would look like that color and I want pleased with the reds available so I'm leaning towards a copper. I like how the colors look together.

Layers-

Chemise- square neck with blackwork embroidery

Drawers- embroidered

Stockings- Eleanor Toledo knit 

Shoes- embroidered 

Partlet- ruffle

Corset- hand stitched embellishment

Petticoat- truptano and rope

Pockets- heraldic embroidered

Underdress- spiral cut sleeves, cutwork skirt

Over dress- black lined in blue,  gold bobbin lace trim, gold buttons

Of course if I get motivation to start it singer then the IRCC I'll just go for it