rolling

Things are still rolling here. I've met some amazing people and I'm enjoying learning more about my new Kingdom.  I wish I could travel more and there are times I still feel very isolated where I am at bit I'm hoping time will change that.  I've tried to keep motivated by at least doing little projects.

SCA Resume

Apprentice to Maestra Suzanne de la Ferté, currently of Northshield

Awards
Swan and Escallop (Barony- Enthusiasm- One Thousand Eyes) 1/16/16
Stags Heart (Outlands- AoA Service ) 6/8/15
Sojourner of the Order of Evan (Barony- Persona Development- Caerthe) 3/29/14
Aspen (Barony- Service- Caerthe) 5/7/11
Flower (Outlands- GoA Arts) 8/6/08
Gilded Leaf of Caerthe (Barony-Arts- Caerthe) 9/1/07
Gentle Dragon (Barony-courtesy- Dragonsspine) 1/31/04
Argent Hart (Outlands- AoA Arts) 11/22/03
Award of Arms (Outlands) 1/5/02

Offices
One Thousand eyes Baronial Scribe  (Feb 16- present)
one Thousand Eyes Deputy Seneschal (Nov 15-present) 
Outlands Silent Herald Deputy (July 14-June 15)
Ravenhyrst Disabilities officer (July 14-June 15)
Caerthe Baronial Scribe (Oct. 13-:June 15) 
Outlands Northern Scribal Deputy (Aug 08-July 11)
Caerthe Arts and Sciences Minister (March 08-Jan 10)
Chatelaine of Dragonsspine (Feb 04- Dec 04)

Events
Black Hart Ball Autocrat 2009 (canton Bloodstone)
Black Hart Ball Autocrat 2010 (canton of Bloodstone)
Golden Thimble Autocrat 2014 (canton of Ravenhyrst)
Just Desserts Autocrat 2014 (Canton of Ravenhyrst)
Golden Thimble 2015 (Canton of Ravenhyrst)
Coronation co-autocrat spring 2015 (Barony of Caerthe)

Recognitions
Baron's champion for the barony of One Thousand Eyes  (A&S) January 16 2016
2nd place in the second Italian Renaissance costume challenge held by the Realm of Venus 2012: http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/challenges/IRCC2012/IRCC-II-2012-ChristaG.htm
3rd place in the first Italian Renaissance costume challenge held by the Realm of Venus 2011:
http://renaissanceitaly.net/TempFiles/IRCC-ChristaGordon.htm
Featured Costumer on the Realm of Venus Feb. 2009http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/yourgarb/2009/Magdalena.htm
Featured Costumer on the Realm of Venus Feb. 2007http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/yourgarb/2007/Anora.htm

Retinue
Lady in waiting- Daman & Veronique- Artemisia Royal
Lady of the Wardrobe- Tomas & Symmone - Barony of One Thousand Eyes
lady in waiting- Eric & Brigitta- barony of Dragonsspine
Lady in waiting- Hoegardden & Chiara- barony of Caerthe

Other
Heraldic umbrella- Lady of the rose choice at Queens Prize 2015
Created new Banner for the Barony of Dragonsspine 2010
Created new kneeling pillows for the Barony of Dragonsspine 2009
Created new kneeling pillows for the Kingdom of the Outlands 2009
Featured on SCA Today- http://www.scatoday.net/node/21306
Featured in the Denver Post- http://neighbors.denverpost.com/viewtopic.php?source=phpbb_art_viewall&t=18799385
Completed Dragonsspines Quest- based on the quest by the Barony of Appledore- my quest blog: http://scaquest.blogspot.com/
2nd place in the Research Papers division Kingdom A&S 2010 (paper on courtesans)
2nd place -in the Costume division Kingdom A&S 2008 (Recreation of Edward VI from painting)
Ask the Tudor Girl- a feature with the first season of the Tudors on the shows official page
Costumes featured in the featurette on the costumes of the series The Tudors
Costume Recreation of Edward VI toured United States with painting 2008-2010
Contacted by Museum of Sex to help identify items from Italy dealing with Courtesans- mostly Contraceptive devices
Assisted with recreation of Mary Queen of Scots execution gown which was on Display at the Tower of London 2003-2009

Articles
Courtesans an overview-one thousand eyes newsletter
Written several renditions of a Silent Heralds Manual first in 2000, latest updated in 2013
Silent heralds manual in Outlands heralds and scribes Proceedings 2010
Silent heralds manual in Known World heralds and scribes Proceedings 2010
Elizabethan ruffs- Dragonsspine newsletter
Hand kissing- Dragonsspine newsletter
Starting black work- Dragonsspine newsletter
Introduction to courtesans - helioherald (bloodstone)
ASL in the Sca, being Deaf in the Sca -Fortress (caerthe)

Classes
Sign language:
Basic Sign Language- focus on conversation- Battlemoor 2014 (informal) , Inlandish 2015
Deaf Culture- Battlemoor 2014 (Informal), Battlemoor 2013 (informal)
Here is your sign- learning to be a silent herald- Dragonsspine Practice 2013, Battlemoor 2013, Stagscon 2011, 12th night 2010, Stagscon 2009, Ravenhyrst A&S 2009, 3 stags 2009
How to feed and care for your Silent Herald- Crossroads 2009, Feast of fools 2002
Using Silent Heralds for the signing impaired- Heralds and Scribes 2015

Courtesan:
All about Italian Courtesans- 12th night, Calontir 2014, Dragonsspine A&S 2013 Pennsic 2008, 3 stags 2007
Venetian Costuming- Crossroads 2009, 3 stags 2009
The Honest Courtesan- Crossroads 2009, 3 stags 2009, Crossroads 2008, Caerthe A&S 2008
Sex, lies and videotape" or Courtesans and the movie Dangerous Beauty- Caerthe A&S 2007
Period Courtesans- Crafting the Flower 2012
Courtesans taught in persona- Studium Generale III 2011,Barons war 2011, Studium Generale II 2010, Crossroads 2010,Studium Generale I 2009, Pennsic 2008 (taught at Casa Bardicci) Dragonsspine A&S 2008, Dragonsspine A&S 2007, 

Other:
Persian garb made simple- barony one thousand eyes fighter practice 2015
Boleyn Myths, Busted! - Ravenhyrst A&S 2009
Court Dance- Bloodstone potlucks (several months)
Courtly Love and the Art of Hand Kissing- Dinner and a Tourney 2008
Walking with Style (Court Dancing)- Elizabeth Celtic festival Demo 2008, Crossroads 2007
Ivy Scrolls- 3 stags 2009
roberts rules and what do they have to do with SCA meetings- Bloodstone 2009
courtly speech or speak trippingly on the tongue- Feast of Fools 2002
Courtly love round table, (is it really all it's cracked up to be??) Feast of fools 2002
Blackwork- Dragonsspine A&S 2008

handsewn

Starting work on the Handsewn gown.  First project is a corset inspired by the dorethea

second leaf

Second  leaf of the tambour embroidery is done and  9 rows left to go on my second knitted shawl, so I'm showing some progress!

lots of ideas very little motivation

I've discovered that it really sucks not having a sewing space and most of my supplies and resources in storage. I've had a ton of ideas but very little money to make them happen and since most of my stash is hidden in the storage unit it which makes me get excited about an idea and then just  putter out when it comes to execution. I need a kick in the butt and I'm looking to you readers in helping me do so.  Since I'm big on inspiration and ideas and I love a challenge I'm going to attempt to combine them and ask that you help to push me to get work done.  Feel free to drop me a note and ask where I'm at on my current project ask for updates and pictures and don't let me slack off.
In the next post  I want to make a list  of inspiration  jump off points and hope I can start to use them to make new stuff I'm also going to work on doing better write ups when I'm done with a project
Wish me luck!

Master Sashatec

A dear friend Master Sashatec past away last night and my heart is broken.  He's one of the folks I would point out to people and say there is  a peer. He was so humble and funny and a joy to be around. I spent so much time picking his brain or just shooting the shit and it didn't matter it was always an amazing time.  The first year I did the golden thimble event he was one of my biggest cheerleaders he even wanted to come out and play tim Gunn sadly  his health never cooperated with the event. He helped me become a better person and a better costumer.  His honest opinions of my work pushed me to make the next outfit even better. I've been floating out here with a bunch of ideas and no motivation to follow through and I've felt lost.   I can  hear his laugh and voice in my ear telling me to stop making excuses and just do it, to not be afraid to try. To push past all the crap that is going on around me and to lose myself in the things I love .

first leaf done!

And still no arthritis flare!

new pocket new technique

Stayed working on the other half of my  heraldic pockets.  I'm also taking this chance to work on a new technique, tambour embroidery.  What I'm loving about it is that it's so much easier on my hands, having early onset arthritis has killed a lot of the time I would like to spend working on my projects.  But so far no flare up. I've looked into the historical background of this technique,  in  India and Mongolia there is a similar technique using a similar style hook.  The more I'm looking at some late period embroidery I have to wonder if this crossed into western Europe earlier then the  1700s, which is about the date this style of embroidery really came into fashion.

time on my hands

Well I think we are as settled as we are going to get.  I'm hoping to start buckling down and getting some sewing time in  once it starts cooling off, the heat is killing my motivation.  I have the supplies pulled to make 3  outfits with lots of little projects in between which should appeal to my sewing ADD. Which means I should have more to post here soon.  I also think I've been hired to make some eclesiastical items for the historic church out here,  it's Episcopalian was built in the mid-late  1700's and they like to boast that they were here before the Mormons. It's basically catholic lite for those not familiar with the religion and as the Catholic Church in town only offers Spanish Mass this is the closest I'm going to find to what I'm familiar with. Hopefully I cam snag some pictures next week as it is beautiful.
That's what I've been up to since the move still hoping to make contact with the sca in the area, fingers crossed I can catch them this week

moving

Thursday we were suppose to get and load the moving truck, that didn't happen,  thanks uhaul. So we  have been a day behind on everything.  Loaded on Friday,  drove all day Saturday.  Unloaded into the storage unit Sunday and today we are moving what little we can into the house we will be calling home for a while. We  are sore and tired and so over moving stuff around. The dog is not thrilled being chained in the yard but my mother in law will not let him in the house and there is no fence.  We started building a dog run  in the pasture but that probably won't get done until tomorrow.  Its a little chilly today which is better then the scorcher we dealt with yesterday. I was  able to get the one box with my favorite research books and patterns into the house so I can work on some projects once everything is "back to normal "
Still hoping to go to fighter practice on Thursday to meet the local  sca folks I'm sure that will go a long way to making me feel less alone out here.  I'm missing everyone so much and while it's only been a few days I really feel like a stranger in a strange land, I don't know where anything is and out side of the family I'm living with I don't know anyone  (at least face to face ) out here.
I wish I could grab lunch with Joe at a local mexican place or get together with the girls for an a&s night  so  I could vent about the moving process.  But hopefully  I will have new folks to hang with soon.

when is too hot to pack

So I've been packing and prepping for the move but with the  air conditioner dead in the middle of the day its too hot to do anything but sit on the couch and stew so I got started on the first project in my ambitious outfit.

Heraldic  pockets

For those just coming to the party these are my arms

So I came up with a plan of one black and one white pocket 

And  I got started with the embroidery using a combo of  chain and split stitch 

I'm pleased with my progress so far

first things first

In  depth plans  listing each item,  each  embelishment,  step by step with approx material needed is done.  Deciding on the first projects I will take on after the move had been made.  I'm  going to start  with the heraldic embroidered pockets and corset that should keep me busy for a while with enough variation so I have something diffrent   to do when I start feeling like I'm doing something to repetitive .
The corset materials and pattern is already packed so I started  drawing out the design for the black pocket as  the material lives in my work basket and only gets put into my car when I go somewhere.
I did some research on appropriate hand stitches and embroidery stitches  so I think I have a good foundation to start  this project.  I'm looking into what kind of embroidery I want to do on the collar of the partlet and wondering if I can figure out how to do some pierce  metal work for a belt

ambitious project

I'm playing with undertaking a huge project.  A full italian outfit Sewn 90%  by hand. It's looking like I will have some time on my hands so I can under take this

The only Thing I will not be sewing by hand is the quilted petticoat mainly because it is highly experimental and really detailed in a medium I have never tried before.  As money is incredibly tight I well be using a faux silk I have in my stash,  the chemise and partlet will be out of silk from my stash the pockets from linen in my stash. There will be lots of embroidery and hand aplique.

This will be heraldicly inspired by my arms and  badge  including   elements such as pomegranates and ermine

My  arms 

My  badge 

The dress inspiration 

The plan 

motivation

A few weeks to go before the big move and I'm being to feel twitchy since I haven't been able to work on any projects for a while. Not sure how it will go while we are living out of boxes stored in a storage locker. So it's going to be a time to get creative, make lists and plan. Hopefully using this blog will help keep me on track. It's times like this I almost wish my laurel, as awesome as she is, have me homework assignments. Heading into the unknown and needing prove myself to a whole new set of people I'm going to need something to keep me on task. This deserves more thought

it's never too early

To plan for next years Italian renaissance costuming challenge.

The IRCC ends in a couple of weeks and I'm so glad I didn't do it this year. Between our financial issues and the move there is no way I could have pulled it off. By the time the IRCC comes around again I'll be in a different state and in a new kingdom. Maybe, just maybe I'll be be with folks who understand the challenge and it will be more then just a blip on their radar.

The one thing I have learned from completing the challenge twice before is you have to have a plan. This also helps as I can start spreading out the costs for supplies although I am going to be on a very tight budget. I've already decided to use faux silks as the cost for the yardage  I will need will be expensive.

The inspiration:

From 'Mores Italiae' 1557 Venice

I've never done this style before so it will be an interesting challenge. I don't know what out it's about this image, maybe it's the color combination but it so speaks to me.

Fabrics-

My samples finally arrived after 2 months of waiting.

For a faux silk these have a nice weight and body to them. I used this fabric when I did the costumes for Kismet and while it's not ideal overall it's a good facsimile, and at just under $5 a yard it makes it affordable.

The underdress is a very interesting color an orange/red/copper/gold. I couldn't find anything that would look like that color and I want pleased with the reds available so I'm leaning towards a copper. I like how the colors look together.

Layers-

Chemise- square neck with blackwork embroidery

Drawers- embroidered

Stockings- Eleanor Toledo knit 

Shoes- embroidered 

Partlet- ruffle

Corset- hand stitched embellishment

Petticoat- truptano and rope

Pockets- heraldic embroidered

Underdress- spiral cut sleeves, cutwork skirt

Over dress- black lined in blue,  gold bobbin lace trim, gold buttons

Of course if I get motivation to start it singer then the IRCC I'll just go for it

moving forward

As we finish the last touches on the house preparing to start showings on Monday everything is becoming very real. I admit I'm scared moving to a new kingdom full of people I do not know, leaving behind a kingdom I've been very active in for 18 years. I'll miss the family I have created here.

This is the part of the blog I've been hesitating to write but it's important. I may get flack for it but for others in the same place as I am it's important to hear. This move may mean I'm sort of starting over but it also means I'm no longer stagnant. Something I've been struggling with for many years here. I've been feeling very stuck. Being in the middle is difficult, it felt like no matter what I was doing I couldn't move forward. My new research was meet by shrugs, my garb had become expected no matter what I did to it. The events I ran were successes but again were treated like they happened because they always did. When I talked to my friends who were peers I was told I was doing fine just to keep going but I needed to feel like I was moving forward that I was improving that I was doing something good. To me I felt like I have been spinning my wheels and the thing is it doesn't matter. It's normal to feel you plateaued and that I think is the important message. Some folks will see huge leaps of improvement, others it's tiny steps hard to see. Some will get recognition after recognition and others it will be few and far between. Each journey is different but the biggest thing I can express to the people who like me feel stuck is that you are not alone,  This too shall pass find your joy in the little things. Your strength is in the fact that after years of being stuck in the middle- you are still here! You have fought with self doubt and continued, keep going! Even if the accolades never come you are an inspiration!

official move date

We will be picking up the moving van July 30th and plan to be in blackfoot August 1st

Events I'm hoping to get to

Baron's War Aug 7 – 9

Harvest War Sep 18 – 20

Autumn Ball Oct 17

Kingdom Collegium Nov 7 

Golden Thimble Nov 14-15 (calontir)

Baronial Birthday Nov 21

Solstice Court Dec 12

touch up

Squeezed in a tattoo touch up yesterday  it now "pops"

tumblr famous

It seems I am tumblr famous last week a total stranger stopped me in a shop because he had seen my tattoo on tumblr, turns out it really had taken off on a lot of Deaf blogs. I have to say I love it too

This is it right after it was done, the colors have muted a bit so I am hoping to sit with my artist to see if we can outline the negative space better and pump up the colors before I leave

latest garb project

This garb will most likely be put on the back burner and finished after the move but I've joked for years about recreating the garb of a common prostitute, fit evening wear, just for fun and to show some differences between the upper and lower classes. I'm basing my outfit on this woodcut

And to add to the slightly naughty outfit I decided to make buttons based on this roman brothel coin

I'm pretty pleased with how they came out

Persona Challenge

So while scoping out my new kingdom I saw that they have a Persona Challenge happening. As some folks know Persona Research is something I love to do. It's not much as I didn't want to dive in to deep with the move coming up so fast putting a lot on my plate but I am glad I took it on. The challenge: To encourage all to explore their personas this challenge is to write a brief overview of your persona and include five historical facts with sources cited. It's not my best work but I thought I would give it a whirl.

Magdalena Lucia Ramberti [i]was born Oct 16 1551 to Helena and Nicolo da Canal, the 3rd surviving child of 5 pregnancies. Her mother a retired courtesan saved her money to have a good dowry so she could marry a gentleman who was rising among Pietro Lando’s [ii] household. Her two older brothers Domenico and Luca grew up to serve the mother church. Domenico become an honored solider in the church's Army and Lucca became a priest and traveled to raise money for the church's coffer's.

At age twelve Magda's father succumbed to sickness. With her son's gone Helena had to turn to the one trade she knew, to support herself and her daughter. With the dowry wars raging she knew she could never afford to marry Magda well[iii]. She began teaching her daughter[iv] what it took to become a courtesan and Magda flourished at her lessons. Her mother introduced her to all the right people and reminding her to not fritter away her hard earned money. She also encouraged Magda to use the name of one of her clients instead of the common Da Canal so she could move in higher circles[v].

Magda now lives in a lovely Casetta (small house) purchased by one of Magda's Patrons. It faces Rio d. Verona and Backs onto Calle Madona. One side of the casetta overlooks Rio di San Luca[vi]. It is a perfect location close to three large Churches and far enough away from the Grand Canal that her clients might come to her salon's without the distasteful looks of their wives.

---

[i] [Magdalena]: "Italian Renaissance Women's Names" by Rhian Lyth of Blackmoor Vale (http://heraldry.sca.org/heraldry/laurel/names/italian.html) lists this name as a feminine name from Florence dated to the 14th and 15th C. [Lucia]: "Italian Renaissance Women's Names" by Rhian Lyth of Blackmoor Vale (http://heraldry.sca.org/heraldry/laurel/names/italian.html) lists this name as a feminine name from Florence dated to the 14th and 15th C. [Ramberti]: "Italian Names from Imola, 1312" by Aryanhwy merch Catmael (http://www.ellipsis.cx/~liana/names/italian/imolafemalph.html)

[ii] Pietro Lando, Doge of Venice (1538–1545)
Setton, Kenneth M. The Papacy and the Levant, 1204-1571. Philadelphia: American Philosophical Society, 1976.

[iii] The dowry wars had grown to such an extreme that the price to be married became outrageous and out of reach for many middle and lower middle class women. Without marriage, income was limited, status difficult to come by and some women learned to use their minds and bodies for financial gain.
Brown, Patricia Fortini. Private Lives in Renaissance Venice: Art, Architecture, and the Family. New Haven: Yale University Press, 2004.

[iv] There are listings in the registry of Courtesans where a mother is listed as a courtesan and later she registers her daughter
Rosenthal, Margaret F. The Honest Courtesan: Veronica Franco, Citizen and Writer in Sixteenth-century Venice. Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1992.

[v] A common practice
Masson, Georgina. Courtesans of the Italian Renaissance. New York: St. Martin's Press, 1976.

[vi] Martin, John Jeffries. Venice Reconsidered the History and Civilization of an Italian City-state, 1297-1797. Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 2000. 

Moving

So after 18 years in the Kingdom of the Outlands I am moving. This is very sudden and I admit I'm a bit nervous about the move. Beyond the panic of trying to get the house ready for a move, It's very daunting to being going somewhere to start over again. It's a bit silly I know, but that is the truth of it.

I'll be going to the Barony of One Thousand Eyes, in the Kingdom of Artemisia. (Blackfoot, Idaho) To say that the outpouring kindness from my soon to be kingdom has be overwhelming is an understatement. Wow! Everyone has been so amazing. I'm not sure what the future holds for me but I am hoping that all will be looking up in my new Kingdom

Things not to do or say to a Deaf person

These are all things I have experienced. I'm pretty open about my Deafness and I am always willing to answer any questions but sometimes I am shocked at the things folks say or do often with the belief they are being funny

Don't shout at me, yes I can't hear but yelling at me isn't going to make it any better and if I am wearing my hearing aides that is just going to really hurt me

Don’t over-enunciate or speak slower.  “Helllloooo, mmyyyy naaaaammme iiiiisssss ...." I read lips and I was taught to do so at a normal speaking rate. slowing down and over-enunciating just makes that so much harder, your mouth doesn't move right and it gives me the impression you think I'm an idiot

Say you know sign language and then flip me off.  That’s lame.

Don’t cover your mouth and then ask if I can hear you.  Are you 5?  Apologies to 5-year-olds.

Don't ask me to read the lips of a private conversation thats rude

If I ask you to repeat something don't tell me it wasn't important or nevermind or I'll tell you later. It makes me feel like you want to exclude me.

Don't tell me to get a cochlear implant to cure my deafness- first it isn't a cure and second that is a very personal choice that not every deaf person wants. I am one of them and frankly I'm a bad canidate for one

“Wow, you don’t look deaf!”, "you're to pretty to be deaf", "you are to smart to deaf" and any variation thereof- ugh

When someone says they are Deaf don't answer with "what?" and think it is the best joke ever- it wasn't funny the first time and it isn't funny now

If I am signing to someone don't demand I voice my conversation, one it's hard to work two languages at the same time two it might not be a public conversation for you and three how rude!

Yes I speak well but it is a lot of work and sometimes I just want to be able to relax. You use your voice when you speak and it is second nature to you, I use my hands. I have a dream of one day attending an sca event and just enjoying myself without all the extra effort it takes to lip read and speak. we are getting to a point with silent heralds that I can almost do this. Don't be offended if I just don't want to talk, my brain can only take so much and with my health I find I'm getting tired faster

use what I identify as, if I say I'm hard of hearing then that is the way to describe my hearing loss, if I use deaf then that is what to use if I use Deaf (which I do) it is because I identify as such and I am asking you to respect my cultural identity as well. It is not for anyone else to decide what you are

terza rima

Lo my lord no more words! to deeds to actions!
Waste not one more line, not one more syllable
No odes to beauty to gain my attention

If it is love or lust you feel, be sinful
Attract with a touch and be rewarded
desire is not a time to be sensible

I can see it in your eyes you are tempted
to slip between the saintly and the bawdy
wishes to bend and entwine and be knotted

If you like I will say that you challenged me
And like a maid did try to resist thy chains
by skill alone I am yours loyally

My part is played now yours is all that remains
Come here and full of the most wicked desire
together we shall feel fire within our veins

Then to darkness fade until next we conspire

Dante Alighieri created this style and it is first seen in his Divine Comedy. Boccaccio and Petrarch soon followed, Thomas Wyatt and Geoffrey Chaucer brought terza rima into English poetry in the 14th century. Terza rima is a style of poetry written in three-line stanzas linked by end-rhymes patterned aba, bcb, cdc, ded, efe, and so on. There is no specified number of stanzas in this form, but poems written in terza rima usually end with a single line or a couplet rhyming with the middle line of the last stanza. The lines should be of the same length. There are no limits to the number of lines a poem composed in terza rima may have. Meter is not specified in terza rima, although many English poets use iambic pentameter.

Inspired by the poems of Italian Courtesan Veronica Franco, I wrote my own Tezra Rima. I used the hendecasyllabic (eleven-syllable) line common to Italian poetry and seen in the Divine Comedy. As my Italian isn't up to snuff yet I wrote it in English.

attempt at letter in persona

My dearest English lord,

It has been so long since you graced me with your loving glances and passionate words. Must I wait until the thaw to feel your arms around me again? Like Persephone I find myself dwelling in darkness longing for the spring to bring joy and light back into my world. Give me hope with promises you will find your way home to me. This winter has been too cruel, the void in my heart that only you can fill has brought a chill I cannot escape. I hold the memories of your laughter, wit and charm as they are the only things to bring a smile to my lips. I know our parting was not ideal and we found ourselves more married then lovers, but even then they are moments I cherish. The fire in my heart still burns for you, my nights are lonely and my thoughts are often of you. At the slightest word you would find me a slave to our love. As coy and wild as Artemis, As passionate as Aphrodite and as completely yours as the echos of my heart remind me that I am. With a word I would play the part of your dreams, cold and distant goddess, pliable maiden, wanton lover, obedient servant. Such roles are empty without you. Tell me you still think of me, that this pain is not just mine alone to bear. Be kind to me, do not have me wait for your reply to long.

Yours, body, heart and soul
Magdalena Lucia Ramberti
This 29th day of December
In Venice

embroidered pocket

I'm using silk thread on linen. The embroidery pattern is based on the embroidery found on a pair of drawers mentioned in "Dressed (or Undressed) for success" by Carol Tucker, while interviewing Margaret Rosenthal, itis mentioned  "how courtesans wore male-style clothing as undergarments - such as linen knickers, embroidered with phrases such as "I want the heart."

Drawers found in Moda a Firenze

a drawing of the embroiery by © Claudette Pomroy 2008

Finished pocket

Italian Renaissance Costuming Challenge

For the last 3 years the realm of venus, which is an incredible resource for costuming, has held a costuming challenge. We are in the middle of the 3rd annual challenge and I am busy sewing for it.

for those interested here are links to the challenge and pictures of my finished gowns

year 1

year 2

I was also very privileged to be featured in the Denver Post during the first year challenge

earlier handout

Courtesans

Magdalena Lucia Ramberti

I. What is a Courtesan?

Courtesans were not looked at as women nor were they as valued as men, instead they found

themselves in a grouping of their own. Within the male dominated society of 16th century Venice

courtesans were able to move outside the confines of the believed place reserved for women. “The

use of the term cortigiana (courtesan) confirms the recognition of a new category of public women.

Strictly speaking, of course, it simply means court lady- the female counterpart of cortigiano or

courtier.” (Brown, 2004)

Courtesans, came into being because of many social, political and religious influences. Italy proved to be the perfect breeding ground for their creation. The separate governing bodies, the lack of an overall monarch and the melting pot of cultures caused by trade opened the doors for this new class of women. Venice, being my main focus of study, had all of these factors and more. The dowry wars had grown to such an extreme that the price to be married became outrageous and out of reach for many middle and lower middle class women. Without marriage, income was limited, status difficult to come by and some women learned to use their minds and bodies for financial gain.

Yes, this sounds exactly like prostitution “the act or practice of engaging in sexual intercourse for money.” (Prostitution, 2012) Yet it was more then just sex, while it might be a tool in their toolbox it wasn't always a part of a working relationship. Courtesans offered social and intellectual refinement in return for patronage, very much in the same manner as the geisha before World War II in Japan. The

courtesan fulfilled societies need for a refined yet sexualized version of the noblewoman. Like her male counterpart the courtier, a courtesan had to be educated in playing music, singing, writing poetry, all the courtly graces, dancing, chess playing, current events, the classics and witty banter. This education and the fact she was also paid for these skills separate her from the lower classes of prostitutes. From the lowest class, the meretrice, picture a streetwalker type, to the cortigiana di lume (courtesan of the lamp) who worked in inn houses and brothels. Both solely dependent on selling sexual favors for their income. The cortigiana onesta (honest courtesan or honored courtesan) sold her intellectual and literary skills thus earned her income “honestly”. Cortigiana onesta never really dismiss the sexual aspects of their profession but it is far from the focus of it.

In same vein they were not classified as noblewomen, it was rare for a noblewoman to be educated beyond the basics. Rosenthal (1992) says of noblewomen, “Their education consisted of elementary reading and writing in the vernacular, rudimentary arithmetic, and also handiwork, such as embroidery and weaving.” For noblewomen it was also believed that “Woman’s voice lead to sexual temptation; eloquence in a woman lead to promiscuity.” (Masson, 1975) This belief most likely had ties to the first temptation of Adam in Eden, thus creating a society that felt the need to protect it's noblewomen from further education and sheltering them from perceived threats of corruption from outsiders. Libraries were closed to women as a whole but courtesans were seen as intellects and were granted access. Courtesans were able to afford many luxuries and dressed accordingly.

2. Identifying a Courtesan.

Imagine you are a male tourist in 16th century Venice; you have traveled here for business or a

pilgrimage, and you have high hopes of seeing one of the honest courtesans Venice is so well known

for. As you walk the canals you come upon a woman; she is lavishly dressed , obviously a woman of

money. Since courtesans dressed in a similar manner to a noblewoman, how would you know if this

woman was a courtesan or the doge's wife? The difference between the noblewoman and courtesan

of the 16th century were not often easy to spot with the eyes. Unless the courtesan was openly

advertising her presence, which could be very dangerous as they were often a target of violence,

she would often dress like a noblewoman. This caused many issues, making a senator in 1564 state:

“The prostitutes in this city of ours have so excessively increased in number, and having cast aside all modesty and shame, they publicly frequent the streets, churches, and other places, adorned and dressed so handsomely that often our noblewomen and our citizens are dressed in much the same way, so that not only foreigners but local people as well are unable to tell the good from the bad, thus setting a bad and most pernicious example for those who cross their paths and see them, in view of the many advantages enjoyed by such persons of a low and abject standing.” (Barzaghi, 1980)

This lead to the passing of sumptuary laws which were difficult to enforce and easily side stepped by bribery or paying a fine on the off chance they were caught. These laws tried to prevent prostitutes and courtesans alike from wearing silk, gold, silver, pearls, jewels- real or fake, and earrings. Sometimes the laws were written in such a way that they only referred to prostitutes giving courtesans a loophole as their profession was considered much more dignified. When the laws restricting what a could wear failed there was an “attempt to have courtesans identify themselves by require the wearing of a yellow veil.”(Robin, Lawson & Levin, 2007) Again this was easily side stepped by paying a fine.

So how would a courtesan advertise themselves? Often it came down to subtle signals and word of mouth. While it would be logical to think they would wear taller chopines, have longer trains or more lavish dress, this was not always reliable as Noblewomen tried to draw the eye in the same manner. The only sign I can trace is a move I have coined as the “courtesan peak”. Women when outdoors often wore veils that covered their faces, thus giving them protection not only from the sun but also gave them anonymity thus protecting them from them tempting influences. Yet we see time and time again drawings showing some women lifting and peaking out from under their veils. How provocative this might have been for a gentleman on the street, a touch forbidden, all the while revealing herself to be a courtesan in a subtle manner.

3. The drawbacks

While it may seem that courtesans led a charmed life, it was not without it's drawbacks. Courtesans like the male counterpart the courtier sought political and social advancement within the feudal system during the renaissance, thus facing them off to battle for the attentions of the same patrons. This made courtesans a target to their male counterpart, who wrote nasty satire about courtesans, endangering their reputations and thus their livelihoods.

Violence against courtesans could come in many forms, a jealous lover, a refused man, those who believed she was immoral and need to be punished just to name a few. One of the most shocking and distasteful violent acts dolled out upon a courtesan would be a tentuno (thirty-one) a gang rape that would then have the details of the attack spread around the court. Besides the physical nature of the attack, it also served to humiliate and increase the chance to contract a venereal disease

The noblewoman had no power over her own social advancement, whereas the courtesan had more freedom. Before a noblewoman married, her life and money were governed by her father or

brothers. Once married, all her property transferred to her husband. “From about 1100, the position

of property-holding males was enhanced further. Inheritance was confined to the male, or agnate line- with depressing consequences for women.” (Jones & Rosenthal, 1998) During the renaissance, a person was born and died in the same social class, there was very little movement nor was such movement expected. Courtesans were able to rise from the lower middle classes up into the aristocracy. The Courtesan made enough money to advance her class status and because she was outside of the bonds of

marriage she could manage her own money. In response sumptuary laws were passed in attempts

to recreate the social boundaries. Such laws were easily overcome as they were often not enforced.

In order to move into such circles an up and comer needed to be able to participate in social

networking. The women of respectful families found themselves shut away from the world around

them. Women found themselves to be “assigned to subordinate positions in the household and the

church, they were barred from significant participation in public life.” (Jones & Rosenthal, 1998) If you look at the design of homes in Venice you will discover often they contained amazing gardens that could only be entered by going through the house. This way the women and daughters of noble families could enjoy the outdoors without exposing them to the corrupting forces of the outside world.

Courtesans, on the other hand, depended on social networking. One of their key roles was to set up social exchanges for their clients to not only advance the clients standings but also themselves.

Courtesans were able to exert a significant amount of control over their own person. “Women possessed virtually no political power of their own, owing to an

oligarchy dominated by men, and the laws passed by men reveal not only a class bias but a special

arrogance towards women” (Rosenthal, 1992). Whereas a woman had no control over whom they would marry, courtesans could pick and choose their clientele. If a courtesan wished she could use the wealth she had amassed and had control over to choose her own husband. If marriage was not something she

wished to invest her time into she could invest her own money and live quite happily on her own

wealth. As a true mistress of her own house a courtesan made all the decisions of her own home

and she was subject to no man's whim unless that of her own choosing.

While the noblewoman did lead the rich life of the upper crust, it is the ability to be so educated and

being able to move within the class structure which makes the courtesan a fascinating

subject. There is much a modern woman can learn from the women of the past. Whereas the

noblewoman was the glue that held her household together; the courtesan was truly the first

feminist voice in a male dominated society. New documents are being found every day and as

scholars and translators decipher these documents our knowledge of these enigmatic women can

only grow.

References

Brown, P.F. (2004). Private Lives in Renaissance Venice. New Haven:Yale University Press

Barzaghi, A.(1980) Donne o courtigiane?. Verona: Bertani

de Heere, L. (Artist). (1584). Théâtre de tous les peuples nations et de la terre et avec leurs ornemens diverse habits: Venetian courtesan. [Drawing]. Retrieved from http://lib.ugent.be/fulltxt/RUG01/000/794/288/BHSL-HS-2466_2009_0001_AC.pdf

Jones, A.R. & Rosenthal, M.F. (1998). Veronica Franco: Poems and Selected Letters. Chicago: The University of Chicago.

Masson, G. (1975). Courtesans of the Italian Renaissance. London: Martin Secker & Warburg Limited

prostitution. (n.d.). Merriam-Webster's Dictionary of Law. Retrieved May 09, 2012, from Dictionary.com website: http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/prostitution

Robin, D.M., Larsen, A., & Levin, C.(2007). Encyclopedia of Women in the Renaissance: Italy, and England. Santa Barbara: ABC-CLIO.

Rosenthal, M.(1992). The Honest Courtesan: Veronica Franco, Citizen and Writer in Sixteenth Century Venice. Chicago: The University of Chicago.

Rosenthal, M, & Jones, A.R. (2008). The Clothing of the Renaissance World: Europe,

Asia, Africa, The Americas; Cesare Vecellio's Habiti Antichi et Moderni. London: Thames & Hudson.

unknown. (Artist). (1575). Mores italiae: A venetian courtesan (dressed as a widow) [Drawing]. Retrieved from http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/MoresItaliae1.jpg

unknown. (Artist). (1595). Album amicorum of a german soldier: Venetian courtesan. [Drawing]. Retrieved from http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/ManuVen5.JPG

Vecellio, C. (Artist). (1585). De gli habiti antichi et moderni di diverse parti del mondo: Venetian courtesan outdoors. [Drawing]. Retrieved from http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/Vecellio15.jpg